The taxi driver weaves his way along Via España, the major East-to-West artery of Panama City. Another sweltering day, heat rising up from the streets. Dodging Diablos Rojos, the elaborately colorful (if kitschy) “Red Devil” former school buses from the United States, he makes the sign of the cross as he passes La Iglesia del Carmen. Upon these same buses are painted abundant references to, and quotes from, the Bible. They are juxtaposed paradoxically next to scantily clad women and double-entendre jokes, the irony of which is seemingly lost on all of Latin America. As another car cuts him off, the cabbie growls and throws both hands into the air in exasperation.
The passenger in the backseat peers through the rusted holes in the floor to the pavement passing underneath him, reflecting on the fact that this cab has seen better days. On the dashboard bobbles a small statue of Jesus, dancing animatedly with every pothole and misalignment. The sound system, meanwhile, is in fantastic condition. There are so many references to the Almighty here, it’s like everyone believes that God is on their side; at least they drive that way. The cabbie wields his car through the street like he knows where he’s going when he dies, and he’s in a hurry to get there.
A bushel of bananas belonging to the driver accompanies the passenger in the backseat. This is his last trip of the day before he takes them home to his family. After dropping off the passenger and collecting his $1.50 fare, he slips through the part of town called Cinco de Mayo. As he turns the corner, he miscalculates his merger and flattens his front fender along the broad side of a BMW.
No one is injured, fortunately, but there is some cosmetic damage to both cars. This isn’t this taxi driver’s first fender-bender. In fact, most cars in the city have some form of blemish. But clearly the BMW owner thinks he has more to lose with an unsightly dent in his passenger-side door. An irate man dressed in a suit exits the BMW and begins to berate the taxi driver with venom. “Look what you’ve done! You’ve ruined my car! You probably don’t even have insurance! How do you expect to pay for this?” he screams. The cabbie avoids eye contact and lets the BMW owner run out of steam before he suggests a peace offering. “Bueno,” he says, “take the bananas, then.”
TAGS: Panama Panama City
